Food, Food, Glorious Food
Food fascinates. I think of Babette’s Feast, my dear friend who awoke at 5am to reserve a Michelin two star in Amsterdam, and how we talk about food, recalling with details a luscious meal that stayed in our mind’s eye for years. We savour the thought, even salivating a bit, lips wet, eyes shining. And then of course, we remember our aproned grandmothers’ monumental family dinners where laughter and enjoyment surrounded an evening that lingered for hours over unending courses: sweet labours we took for granted.
The Land of Milk and Honey, a story of food scarcity and plenty, introduces us to a situation becoming unfortunately, too familiar, a world declining, climate waning, meals reduced to chemicals, scraps, and in the story, only an ersatz substitute standing in for the multitudes of flour we now know, for this civilization’s survival rests on the bland, grayish specially engineered mung bean flour milled from plants that can be grown under low light condition: the necessary result of intractable, crop-smothering smog.
Into this struggling world, our unnamed narrator, a former chef from Pasaje,California reminisces about her days as a line cook, an impulsive jaunt to Paris, and-her mother’s disappointment when she decides her profession will be in the kitchen. The protagonist mutters, “What it amounted to was skies that were gray and kitchens that were gray. You could taste it: gray. No olives, no quails, no grapes of the tart green kind … no saffron, no buffalo, no polished short-grain rice.” And with no surprise, she laments her visa refused in order to return to the States, and being stuck in England: “ As they shut borders to refugees, so countries shut their palates to all but those cuisines deemed essential. In England, the shrinking supplies of frozen fish were reserved for kippers, or gray renditions of cod and chips…” The smokey grayness has enveloped every aspect of life.
But in this world of rotting vegetables and fruits, somehow she locates her dream position. Lying about her experience, she succeeds in achieving her goal. Flown to Italy in a private jet and driven up a mountain where magically no smog has invaded, her senses begin to recall the colours, the smells, the touch of ripening produce. Having felt depressed and obsolete in a world where the livestock have been slaughtered and vegetation withered, she re- experiences delight at a box left by her new employer on the mountain in Italy that contains flour, vanilla, eggs and fresh strawberries “ and a note: “Impress me.” Much like Alice in Wonderland, her curiosity is peaked.
Given a temporary contract at the new job at the French- Italian border town,, her contract relies on cooking extravagant Sunday dinners for a selection of investors wiling to support this enclave where soil, crops, and sunshine can continue to be harnessed to re- establish and re- introduce the delicacies for the palate.
She soon learns that she’s working for a man in thick orange makeup with dead shark eyes, one whose background involves no royal inheritance but a clever knack at self promotion. She will discover it is more than her culinary skills that have landed her this privileged position. With an unwieldy ego, he manoeuvres his investors by offering them sweet treats, those Sunday dinners that showcase her reawakening their memories through their appetites.
Besides the magical event of having escaped the deadly of suffocating gray, in a subterranean laboratory, the planet’s lost diversity is culled, of “chickens, pigs, rabbits, cows, pheasants, tunas, sturgeon, boars,” along with extinct grains, vegetables, fruits and spices. All this substantiates the eight-course dinners served for her employers’ wealthy investors. Every week, the unnamed narrator is “steered [by] the powerful [through] their tongues, “ everything from tuna ventresca, onion soup, petits fours, caviar, Koshihikari rice over blood oranges, braised duck in macadamia milk, panna cotta, Spanish mackerel, mapo tofu lasagna…frisée aux lardons topped with the orange yoke of country markets…experiments in sourdough…macadamias, buttery, fragrant and thumb- sized, fresh blood ice cream…jewel bright Japanese yams:” all carefully selected, even precious song birds that have been eliminated by the ravaging climate and appeal to the desires of a crowd wealthy enough to have dined on these specialities in a previous world where even extravagances were de rigeur.
The protagonist, unimpressed by her employer, also meets his daughter, Aida, who at first glance presents as a spoiled overdressed rich kid, the offspring of a wealthy father, who arrives in a red sports car. Our 29 year old narrator is repulsed by this person, but eventually will discover that Aida is a talented geneticist and biochemist, researching and re- establishing the mountain colony’s precious foods sources bringing fowl, chickens , even wooly mammoths and whale to the table. Her program has included breeding rare and even extinct varieties of plants and animals. As in most ventures, this realm is subject not only to the will of government officials but caters to the whims of the wealthy investors who can afford to sustain its mission. Foremost is a plan to bring on board Roman Kandinsky, reported to be the world’s richest man.
The book is a mixture of themes. The evil philanthropist who wants to mingle and become a Svengali to classes and billionaires who would ignore him otherwise, finding him reprehensible: foreign and far flung investors, actresses, heiresses, the world’s elite who can afford what the employer is offering, food and eventually survival for a select number.
The fact that the narrator is an Asian – American woman, invisible and mistaken for other Asians also figures into the narrative. “It has always been easy to disappear as an Asian woman. …[To be] mistaken for Japanese or Korean or Lao women decades older or younger, several shades darker or lighter, for my own mother once I hit puberty.” Her work requires her to dress in white silk, be silent, and impersonate her employer’s wife: playing an evocative, mysterious role in these feasts, wordlessly communicating with patrons and able to commandeer them. The employee is in deed brutish, aggressive and dominating, defining the parameters of his production. Her role as a woman demands her fealty, her subservience. For a time, she revels in the cooking, the food, the role and a loving relationship as thick as pea soup.
The over abundance and excess of food on the mountain, described in lush, mouthwatering detail contrasts the starving hoards in most of the world laid waste. Author C. Pam Zhang provides us with a powerful scene when the narrator and Aida venture into Milan on a mission to resurrect lost food. To break up a gaggle of children who have swarmed her car in response to an incident, Aida throws the last of a bunch of rare apples to a crowd of dirty, emaciated children. Rather than savouring the taste of this rarest of rare treats, they spit out the fruits, the skin, the pulp, the pips in disgust. She considers that having been brought up without the taste for ripe fruits, vegetables, they are unschooled in understanding the sweetness, tartness or any delicious quality that good produce engenders. Aida explains that a turn of the century study produced research that children eating fast food were, “unable to distinguish more subtle flavours.. their tongues were left calloused. As if MacDonalds and Wendy’s have vanquished all the delectable foods, rendering them obsolete to the tongue, a diet of cheetos and chips substantiating the standard of excellence.
The repetitive life force and passion in the ripeness of food, the need to maintain and reproduce is also threaded throughout. But above all it is the indulgence of foods, rich, succulent, delicious, tempting , mouthwatering morsels prepared for those Sunday investors that readers will recall, the dark contrast to food no longer able to be grown and gathered in a planet dead from over production, processing and neglect: the lavish descriptions of melting, fragrant, dazzling textures; the ambiance of cascading light on expensive plates and cutlery that recreate remembrance of dinners beautifully planned and shared at fine dining experiences or a family home, at say, Christmas, a wedding celebration.
Even the narrator is so entranced by these Sunday spectacles that recalling the passion for a lover, she writes of these meals,”..their perfume is complex, not sugar: closer to flesh, the flesh of a loved one, not sanitized, not anodyne, but full of many waters. Strawberries and spring, strawberries and musk, strawberries and sex flooded back as I crushed my tongue to sugar. I’d come to that country hardly daring for bitter green and here, now, this rupturing sweetness.” As the chef recalls the food of her past, from the crunch of spinach to the sweetness of freshly picked produce, we as readers gain an appreciation for the food we consume daily and find in ubiquitous markets, dithering between dragonfruit or jalapeños or yellow and purple carrots.
And again, amazed at the surfeit she finds,, she expounds on what she locates in Aida’s stores, “ Others have estimated the value in those rooms of grains, of nuts, of beans; … I can only say what happened when I pressed my face to a wheel of ten-year Parmigiano, how in a burst of grass and ripe pineapple I stood in some green meadow. … And I can tell you of the ferocious crack in my heart when I walked into the deep freezer to see chickens, pigs, rabbits, cows, pheasants, tunas, sturgeon, boars hung two by two. No more boars roamed the world above. … I knew, then, why the storerooms were guarded as if they held gold, or nuclear armaments. They hid something rarer still: a passage back through time.”
At 29 years old, the narrator was disillusioned and dislocated, worsening global environments and food crises depressing and detaching her from the world she once knew. She left her job in England and departed for a food oasis. For a time, she found fulfillment, both personal and professional, but there is of course the devil in the details, and she could not sustain her role as chef in a world , perhaps even less ethical on a smaller scale than the one she had happily abandoned for the dream of fresh cream and roasted chickens. Unable to endure, her life changes, but she too endures. The story does not end here, but veers interestingly towards the unnamed narrator’s next life.
Readers will recognize the devastating extremes of climate we witness daily : a warning that with climate, food and existence are put at peril. C. Pam Zhang’s book is a warning, a fable of how our food supply could vanish if we do not take immediate steps to preserve the delicate balances that are being destroyed, truly ravished by big business. We, the ordinary, and our sad offspring will become that group of ragtaggle kids whose palettes will not ever know the tantalizing bite of an apple, for when the snakes have overrun our gardens they will keep for themselves the delectable and cast us out with a jeer, a smirk and knowledge we will never know the possible joy of a sun-ripened peach or strawberry, dripping over our lips.